Andrew’s Hamburgers @ 144 Bridport St, Albert Park
5 March 2011
This review marks something of a departure from my norm. In the very short history of the Melbourne Culinary Journal, friends and colleagues have frequently commented that my reviews focus on fine dining eateries and suggested that I should critique some "cheap eats". I suppose that if nothing else, this review will appease them.
Andrew's Hamburgers is a small and unassuming hamburger shop in Bridport Street, Albert Park. It also happens to be a Melbourne institution that has operated for over 50 years under the devoted management of first Andrew Georghiou and now his nephew Greg Pappas. One glance at the photo wall of celebrities confirms its iconic status.
The reason for Andrew's phenomenal reputation, and for my visit on this occasion, is its hamburger with the lot - an almighty burger with a large grilled beef pattie, egg, smoky bacon, melted cheese, tomato, grilled onion, lettuce and cabbage all squeezed into a fresh, toasted white bread bun. While I refuse to venture into the "Melbourne's best burger" debate, as far as an old-fashioned hamburger goes, I am more than happy to declare an Andrew's hamburger with the lot to be my personal favourite. It is the small details that set it apart - from the slightly crispy edges of the pattie to the subtle smokiness of the bacon, from the juiciness of the slightly thicker than normal tomato slices to the additional crunch provided by the cabbage supplemented lettuce. At $10, it all makes for a fantastic economical meal.
So there you have it, Andrew's hamburger with the lot is my pick for a Melbourne "cheap eat". Despite all the fine dining that I enjoy nowadays, an Andrew's burger continues to draw me across town.